After my close escape to Boston, my Thrifty rental car was waiting for me at the airport. Just add water? Not so. After adding the necessary (?) insurance, downgrade (!) and taxes it was about twice the price I expected for just two days. Batteries not included — that is different compared to other countries indeed. It made me intensify my research and rebook my rentals via my freshly obtained ADAC membership (because it includes several insurances, a second driver and taxes). That should do the trick for the next times.
But then, I started my trip up north from Massachusetts to New Hampshire. When I arrived at the White Mountains National Forrest, the wonderful lady at the tourist information did a lot of phoning to get me a good and cheapish accommodation. So I booked two nights at a golf-resort at Woodstock, New Hampshire. After a brief check-in, I went back to do a short hike around the Welch Dickey Loop Trail. New Hampshire has a close resemblance to the landscapes in Germany. All the trees and minor mountains, winding roads… it feels not so far away. And so the trail was just like a walk in a local forest with birds chirping and chipmunks and squirrels running around. Mind at peace. Relaxing while keeping a good pace.
Except for one woman who obviously was doing her daily evening hike, I was all alone on the trail and could enjoy the solitude to the fullest extend. The white mountains clearly were not of volcanic origin but rather plates that had pushed them up and caused large stone slabs to be polished by the forces. That made for some steep ascends on natural paths that looked rather paved than crafted by mother earth.
On the way back I stopped at a diner for late lunch (Texas Burger) and some live music and conversation. The band was doing a good job. They were playing country AND western (just kidding). But my feet needed rest and I was longing for a shower. Or rather, a bath. To my fascination, my bathtub had a jacuzzi and man, that was soooo goooood. My first hot tub in ages!
I slept well, very well that night. Unfortunately, I had to get up early as I planned to do two long hikes. The sunny and warm day started at 8am at 550m with the Franconia Ridge Loop that had varying walking times between 6.25h and 8h according to different websites. At the beginning of the track I was rewarded with a lovely forrest and chirping birds and the usual display of nosy chipmunks and squirrels. The shadowy path slowly made its way up to the ridge giving view to the three big mountains that would be on my loop as I proceeded.
After 1.75h I had made it to a hut of the analoguous organization to the Deutscher Alpenverein. They offered free pancakes! I couldn’t have resisted to that even if I had had breakfast. And then I became aware of the unbelievable: They offered hot drinks for a dollar each. What was special about it? They had Chai Latte powder! And a good one! I had to stay for half’n’hour to munch away the pancakes and for two cups of chai.
I kept walking the rocky, treeless and steep path until I reached the summit of Mt. Lafayette (1580m) at around 10:45am and took a short break for photos and water. It had become a bit cloudy, but that only added to the scenery and made it not too hot to walk. I continued along the ridge to Mt. Lincoln and the slightly lower Little Haystack before I made my way down steep steps of stones. Soon the path reached a river that kept crossing it a lot of times, providing a welcome change and challenge.
By 13:15 I was back at the car park after a total time of 5.25h. Not so bad, I think, for 14.5km and >1200m elevation, even if Axel may disagree. I took off in direction of Mt. Washington, the highest mountain in New Hampshire with a mere 1917m — away two hours of driving. However, I missed one turn and thus lost time with that little detour. Also, I needed some lunch after. In the end, it was getting too late for another nine miles of hiking. A slight miscalculation on my side indeed.
So I decided to drive up the mountain instead after it seemed too late to take the cog rail train (3h return). I passed by a “Bavarian Chocolate Haus” where they played bavarian brass folk music outside. I had to stop by and get some (pricey) sweets. The chocolate wasn’t that amazing, but then again, bavarians are not really known for their chocolate, are they?
Watching the sun come up over Mount Washington
Forever testing your intention
Watching the sun going down over some distant town
And why you sing you never can sayIt ain’t because there’s any question
To do it to before it’s done unto you
Now it ain’t because there’s any question
Your love’s out of frameAnd nobody can keep you from the one you know you are
Nobody to steal the way you sway and the way you walkMay there never be a time that you don’t live through
May there never be a time that you don’t walk through
Be a star, be an altar, and I will hang it on you (Beth Orton, Mount Washington)
The road up to the mountain is the equivalent of the Bolivian Death Road: no railings and very steep. There’s a racing competition each year and the record is around seven minutes with an Audi Quattro. I didn’t feel like I should match that and took about 25 minutes. Though I didn’t have to stop for cooling down the engine of my Ford Fusion.
There’s a nice fact about this mountain. The highest wind speeds on the ground worldwide were measured here about 80 years ago: 372km/h. Sweet, huh? That’s why the buildings are usually chained to the ground.
On the way down I took with me a bunch of hikers who weren’t as lazy as me and did hike up the mountain — only now they had problems getting down in time. They were quite grateful that I took them back to their cars — several more people had to walk down as we passed them and we weren’t so sure if they would be getting a lift.
That was my short two days trip to the White Mountains. It was a pleasure indeed. The next morning I had to drive back to the Boston Airport to meet up with Fabian for our common travels along the east coast.
While I am looking forward to the next three weeks, it also means good-bye to the backpacking style of travelling. No more dorms or hostels with meeting other travelers. Going under the radar. Don’t tell anyone, but I’ll be a tourist for a while.
